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Resting below the rugged pine-covered cliffs typical of the Mediterranean Sea, the cove of Tamariu has established itself as one of the more alluring destinations in Spain. Despite the popularity this reputation earned it, it still has the charm of the small fishing village that it once was, with expansions carefully planned to maintain the original spirit of the spot. All of that means this is ideal for the people that want to experience the true heart of Spain, with the modern and helpful amenities that resorts like this and the surrounding Aigua Gelida offer.


Tamarui has several restaurants and cafes, along with a small supermarket that provides just enough for the locals without making the beachfront feel like a shopping mall. While this is one of the quieter locations that we provide property for, it still comes alive with local music festivals throughout some summer weekends - although we can give you plenty of heads up so you can avoid these if you just want to take it easy. 

Our range of villas will appeal to those that want a particularly lavish experience, with infinity pools and barbeques on offer. However, we also provide smaller apartments equipped with air conditioning and stunning views at a lower cost that will be ideal for couples or lone travellers. With years of experience in this area, we’re happy to answer any questions you have or provide any recommendations for the area. 

Tamariu Beaches

Lying just south of Aiguablava and north of Llafranc, is the small beach resort of Tamariu. A sleepy coastal town, Tamariu comes alive in the summer months, welcoming visitors from across the Mediterranean and beyond.

Very popular with Barcelonans who, every year, venture to Tamariu to escape the city for a welcomed coastal holiday, Tamariu is situated in a small, secluded bay between the towns of Begur and Parafrugell.

A mere three kilometres from the popular Aiguablava beach and under five kilometres from the bustling resort of Llafranc, Tamariu is a tranquil coastal paradise that’s perfect for families – one that retains its quintessentially Spanish charm and identity.

The surrounding area between Palamos town and Cap de Begur is lauded as being the most beautiful diving area on the Costa Brava. The rocky reefs are home to a vast collection of crustaceans and aquatic life, and there’s even the opportunity to participate in night dives, exploring the reefs and searching for the Boreas, an artificially sunk wreck thirty metres for the Palamos harbour.

Visit any of the beaches in and around Tamariu and you’ll be treated to an immersive coastal experience that’s indicative of the finest Spanish summer holidays. Every single beach has its own distinctive identity, attractions and has picture-postcard aesthetic appeal.

Interested in learning more about the exquisite beaches around Tamariu? We have the lowdown on the beaches in and around Tamariu that you must visit.

Platja de Tamariu, Palafrugell

Boasting 160 metres of fine white sand and crystalline teal sea, Tamariu is celebrated for being an admired and often-frequented beach, without ever being boisterous or overcrowded. Picturesque, with a selection of local beachside amenities, Platja de Tamariu is a holiday hotspot that presents the perfect opportunity for families to bask in the Mediterranean sun, unwind and appreciate the beautiful splendour that the world has.

As is indicative of the area, Tamariu beach is enveloped by the pine and the tamarisk trees that give the area its name. Often categorised as an urban beach, Tamariu’s gorgeous landscape is complemented by whitewashed buildings that personify the aesthetic architecture of the region.

A lovely promenade cuts through the buildings and the white sandy shores. You’ll also find a smattering of restaurants that serve a wealth of delectable dishes. Whether you’re in the mood for a hearty meal or mid-afternoon nibble, you’ll discover a range of dishes to tantalise your taste buds.

Adding to the ambiance of the location, it’s not uncommon to discover fished boats beached in the sand and anchored in the water. Visit Tamariu beach and you can take boat trips around the shore – and for studious and curious visitors, there’s even a beach library where you can learn much of the history of this tranquil paradise.

Platja Fonda

Nestled at the foot of the Begur Cave, Platja Fonda (or the ‘deep beach’) is a true gem of the Spanish coastline. The beach has cinder grey sand and deep turquoise water making it one of the most distinctive and memorable beaches in the region. Having resisted the relentless march of time and construction, Platja Fonda is the anthesis of a traditional Spanish beach.

To reach Platja Fonda you must traverse a relatively steep set of stairs and stroll through a smattering of hillside houses. There is a single route entrance to the beach, though rest-assured you don’t need to be overly concerned with the sheer volume of foot traffic. Secluded it may be, but once you reach the shores, you’ll immediately see the profound transportive effect Platja Fonda cultivates.

Adventurous adrenaline junkies will be pleased to discover that there are large rocks at the far end of the beach that are primed for diving and jumping into the sea. The sand isn’t quite as soft between your toes as some Spanish beaches, so flip-flops are essential, but the water offer ample opportunity to relax and explore the underwater depths.

Cala d’Aigua Xelida

Merely five minutes from Tamariu and found amongst rockery and pine trees is Cala d’Aigua Xelida. This small cove was made famous by Josep Pla’s Un viatge frustrat (a frustrated journey), considered by some to be amongst the most poetic verses ever written about Spain and which perfectly encapsulate Josep Pla’s journey along the Costa Brava.

To commemorate this achievement in the Spanish arts, the Palafrugell Town Council and the Josep Pla Foundation set up two plaques which can be found as you make your way to the beach.

The beach itself is barely twenty-five metres long and twelves metres wide. However, its diminutive size does nothing to detract from the character, heritage and tone of the beach. Set onto the shores and you’ll immediately be struck by inspiring views and majestic foliage that surrounds the sand.

Explore the rocks, take a dip in the waters or wander amongst the trees and you’ll begin to understand what inspired Josep Pla to publish his musings of the environment. A mere one and a half kilometres from Platja de Tamariu, Cala d’Aigua Xelida demonstrates the contrast between beaches in the Tamariu area.

These are just a few of the beaches in the Tamariu area that await you. What’s clearly apparent is that whether you desire a secluded oasis or want to soak up the ambiance and amenities of a coastal beach holiday, you’ll find much to put a smile on your face.

Tamariu Attractions

One of Catalonia’s most enduringly-popular summer hotspots, Tamariu welcomes holiday-makers from across the Mediterranean and beyond every season. Originally a small fishing village, Tamariu has evolved over the last few decades, yet it has lost none of its alluring charm. Diminutive, intimate and only an hour away from Girona, Tamariu has long been praised as one of the consummate Mediterranean vacation destinations for families.

The town has a distinct identity. Quaint architecture complements quintessential coastal ambiance. This tranquil and idyllic setting hosts breath-taking seascapes – according to The UK’s Daily Telegraph, one of the best beaches on the Costa Brava – and a spectacular south-facing bay.

It may seem obvious that Tamariu is the perfect place to relax and unwind – and it is. However, visit Tamariu and you’ll discover a range of attractions that should certainly be sampled. What does this quaint coastal town offer? Let’s find out more.

Explore Hidden Bays and Fishing Villages

Escape to the hidden paradise of Tamariu and you can, not only wander picturesque cobbled streets and sun-kissed plazas, swim in the refreshing water of the Mediterranean but take a tour of the hidden oceanic landscape.

Crystalline water and landscapes that must be seen to be believed await everyone who decides to taker a tour of the village. Gain a feeling for this history and the heritage of the region. Experience some of the most compelling vistas in the whole of the Mediterranean and view the whitewashed homes indicative to the region. There really is no better way to experience Tamariu.

Regional guides can map out your journey for you, taking you on a tour of the scenic heights and picturesque sand and shores. There are stops along the way to grab a bite to eat and enjoy a refreshing beverage as you cool off and soak in the atmosphere.

Kayaking Across Tamariu

Anyone hoping to take to the sea and explore Tamariu on their own will be delighted to discover that there’s a range of kayaking tours that circle the shores of the village. One such jaunt, run by Guided Excursions, takes participants on a three-hour tour of Tamariu.

Setting off from beachside of this quaint fishing village, participants can be directed along a designated route all the way to the Cova d’en Gispert – a 150-metre deep cave which is one of the largest and most awe-inspiring natural structures on the Costa Brava.

Along the route, kayakers can stop to admire and explore Aigua Xelida, Pas de la Llebre, Cala Llarga, Cala Marquesa and Cova de la Gavina before finally arriving at Cova d’en Gispert. A great excursion for the whole family to enjoy, bookings can be made online and cost a mere 50 Euros per person. All equipment is provided; all you need to bring is sunscreen, t-shirt, waterproof footwear and drink and a change of clothes.

Take a Scenic Stroll to Aigula Xelida

Improved walkways have made it easier than ever before to traverse the landscape surrounding the tiny rocky bays of Tamariu whilst soaking in some of the most picturesque views of the area – or anywhere in the Costa Brava for that matter.

Surrounded by idiosyncratic landscape of the Costa Brava region, taking a scenic stroll to Aigula Xelide beach is one of the most relaxing and immersive experiences you can have in Tamariu. Soft, scented pine needles enrich the landscape. As you traverse the pathway, you’ll come across an example of stunning modern architecture. An angular, white home with a visibly long swimming pool juxtaposes the rustic landscape.

As the path curls, you’ll be treated to unspoilt coastal views before arriving at a sea gully (a large crack in the cliffs that allows you to see all the way to the ocean below.) Continue to follow the path and you’ll notice a fisherman’s house before arriving at a set of steps that lead you all the way down to the miniature Aigula Xelida beach.

A natural stream with fresh water running across the rocks and pouring into the sea, the spot is a great place for an Instagram photo. The beach itself maybe small but it’s a little hidden gem. Rich in character and typically private, there is not better end to a romantic stroll.

These are just a few of the attractions that Tamariu has to offer. The town is rich in heritage and plentiful in exquisite seascapes, but there’s also much to admire and take advantage of during any seasonal stay.

Tamariu Points of Interest

A small, somewhat sleepy town, Tamariu still has much to pique – and hold the interest of holiday-makers. Nestled right in the heart of one of the most beautiful regions of the Costa Brava and less than two hours from stirring Barcelona, Tamariu – and the surrounding towns – have much to keep you occupied during your stay.

A coastal retreat far reserved from traditional resort complexes across the Mediterranean, Tamariu is pungent with the smell of pine woods and cypresses, rustic in its charm and indicative of a small Spanish fishing village. Unlike some tourist hotspots across Spain, Tamariu has retained its identity despite generations of development across other areas of the Mediterranean.

Don’t expect large centres for tourism, hotels that blight the natural landscape or brand boutiques to cater to the affluent. This just isn’t Tamariu. What you’re treated to is an entirely different experience – one that holiday-makers from across the globe savour year after year.

Interested in learning what the key points of interest are in Tamariu and the neighbouring towns that keep holiday-makers coming back year after year? Keep reading below.

Visit La Bisbal D’Emporda

Any culture-vulture or arts connoisseur will appreciate what Bisbal D’Emporda has to offer. A hive of cultural activities, Bisbal D’Emporda offers a range of points of interest. From crafts and shopping to fairs, markets and a peak into to this history of the area, Bisbal D’Emporda is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the fabric of the area.

Here you’ll find the popular Terracotta Pottery Museum. Historically the most emblematic economic activity in the region, this traditional industry has founded a significant material heritage.

The Terracotta Pottery Museum has a permanent collection of more than 10,000 items. Visit the museum and you can browse ceramic pieces, manufacturing tools and utensils that the ancestors of resident of those that still reside in the region used over the course of their lives.

Additionally, the museum, located in a former factory, includes preserved elements of the ceramic production process, such as chimneys and kilns – and the building itself is one of the main points of interest in the area.

The Medieval Cities of Pals and Peratallada

The history and rich cultural heritage of the Costa Brava is perfectly encapsulated in the towns of Pals and Peratallada. If you’re staying in Tamariu, it’s well-worth a day-trip to visit Pals and Peratallada. Settlements in the region can be traced back to pre-Roman times and to this day, both towns still feature proudly standing structures two thousand years old.

Pals lies just off the road between Palafrugell and Torroella de Mongri. Awaiting your visit is a Romanesque tower that’s elevated on a hill and is clearly visible as you approach the town. Built sometime between the 11th and 13th centuries, the tower is known as Torre de Les Hores (Tower of the Hours.)

The name Pals is derived from the Latin word meaning marsh – Palus and so-named for the nearby wetlands. Today, Pals is famed for its cultivation of rice, a practice that has been traced back to the 14th century.

From Pals you can drive along the GI-650 and then turn onto the GI-651 to reach Peratallada. The village may be small – indeed a 2005 census counted just 222 habitants – but it has been declared a monument of historic and artistic merit. Here you’ll find a smattering of galleries, restaurants and even hotels if you fancy staying overnight. One of the most preserved places in Spain, anyone with a deep love of history should make a point to visit Peratallada.

Centres for Diving

Perhaps unsurprising for a Spanish coastal town, Tamariu is home to a handful of diving centres that offer transcendent exploratory underwater journeys across the many reefs of Tamariu and the surrounding town coasts.

Founded almost four decades ago, Stollis offer a highly-personal diving experience, complete with state-of-the-art equipment and the chance to explore seldom-chartered underwater territory. Divers of all ages and experience levels are welcome to explore one or more of the nine different dive sites across Tarimariu and its neighbouring coastlines.

Embark on a guided underwater tour and get up close and personal with a wealth of aquatic life. Observe sea horses, scorpion fish, octopuses, sepias, groupers, conger and morays, all of which are native to Tamariu.

As a perfect way to spend an afternoon or day out with your partner or family, taking a dive tour is almost a requisite adventure for anyone staying in Tamariu.

As you can see, there are a range of diverse points of interest on offer to anyone staying in Tamariu. The only real question is what do you prioritise on the days that you fancy exploring this exquisite coastal location?

Tamariu Shopping

Visit Tamariu and you’ll be awestruck by the wonderfully scenic coastal town atmosphere, Blue Flag beach, expansive range of delectable eateries and quaint small cafes and bars. A haven for families and the rustically-inclined, each season the Tamariu hosts sunseekers from the across the Mediterranean and beyond.

But what is it that keeps them coming back? The inviting and scenic setting surely has a bearing on their decision, as does the fact that Tamariu feels like a little slice of heaven – a place that’s the anthesis of the hustle and bustle of city life. But beyond that Tamariu, has much to keep holiday-makers occupied.

One of the primary reasons the region is so attractive to holiday-makers is range of shopping opportunities. Perfect for anyone staying in self-catering accommodation or those who love nothing more than to while away the hours strolling quaint Spanish shops, Tamariu may be diminutive and distinguishable from opulent areas in Barcelona and Madrid, but the boutiques, rustic emporiums and supermarkets in the town and the surrounding do have a quintessential Spanish charm.

Here’s a look at some of the smattering of shopping opportunities in and around Tamariu that visitors owe it to themselves to indulge in.

Souvenirs Tamariu

In-keeping with the aesthetic vibe of the town, Souvenirs Tamariu is a great little shop to buy trinkets, treats and gifts for your nearest and dearest. You can find this charming petite stop just off the beach, a mere stone’s throw from the ocean.

The shop welcomed holiday-makers for more than fifty years and is an essential part of the Tamariu beachside experience. Browse the aisles and you’ll find beachwear and a sweet morsel or two to stave off rumbling stomachs.

There’s also a fine selection of rustic jewellery and bespoke beach bags and porcelain decorations for the home. For little ones, Souvenirs Tamariu also stocks a selection of happy cuddly toys and dolls sure to put a smile on their faces.

The perfect place to pick up a treat for small children, grab a memento of your holiday or buy a souvenir for those not with you, Souvenirs Tamariu has something for everyone – and everything is affordable too.

Spar Express Tamariu

One of two Spar supermarkets in Tamariu, Spar Express Tamariu is the ideal supermarket for visitors staying in self-catering accommodation in the town. Browse the aisles and you’ll discover cupboard staples that’ll come in handy when cooking in the evening and a range of fresh produce perfect for that quick bite.

Inside the Spar Express Tamariu you’ll discover a bakery that serves fresh bread, croissants, doughnuts and other sweet treats daily, water and juice to keep you hydrated as the temperature rises and a vast selection of ice lollies.

Essential cooking foodstuffs like stock cubes, pasta, sauce and rice can also be found on the aisles, meaning that, despite being on holiday, you don’t have to worry about letting poor eating habits creep into you diet.

The Municipal Market in Begur

Just fifteen minutes down the road from Tamariu is Begur. A hotbed for tourism, the town swells from 4,000 inhabitants in the off-season to 40,000 in the peak season. The influx of visitors each season are charmed by Begur’s historical heritage, exquisite beaches and diverse holiday accommodation. Begur also hosts an attraction that visitors swoon over – the Municipal Market.

Visit the Municipal Market and enjoy an authentic slice of Spanish culture. This buoyant and intoxicating market features stalls with tempting local produce ideal for rustling up a quintessential Spanish meal for the whole family.

As rich in flavour as the produce is fresh, Municipal Market offers holiday-makers a true of the atmosphere and culinary delights that residents and visitors of Tamariu hold dear to their hearts. Open from 7am to 1:30pm every day except Sunday, Municipal Market is a must-visit for anyone staying in self-catering accommodation.

Tamariu has a range of essential shops that anyone staying in self-catering accommodation in the town both needs and should take advantage of. Better yet, with Begur, Palafrugell and other bay towns on your doorstep holiday-makers with car hire – or even those without – can easily find just what they’re looking for.

Tamariu Nightlife

Tamariu is an oasis. Small coves set amongst rugged pine covered cliffs cascade down to meet the translucent beauty of the Mediterranean. An old fishing village, Tamariu has much to offer the thousands of holiday-makers who take the trip there every single year. Beautiful Blue Flag beaches are located mere minutes from the town – and the area itself being one of acknowledged outstanding beauty.

As picturesque and charming as the village is, you’d be mistaken to think that when dusk descends that that residents and holiday-makers retire to their villas. It may not be as boisterous as Barcelona or energetic as San Antonio in Ibiza, but that doesn’t mean that all holiday-makers can do in the evening is sit around and twiddle their thumbs.

Quiet it may be, Tamariu and the surrounding towns of Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc are hardly desolate in the evening. There’s much to keep you occupied.

Jazz Club La Guitarra

Venture a mile or so up the road to Palafrugell and you’ll discover Jazz Club La Guitarra. Founded in 1962, Jazz Club La Guitarra is an old farmhouse that’s been converted to one of the most happening nightlife venues in the region.

Completely contrasting the sedate vibe of daytime Tamariu, Jazz Club La Guitarra offers unrivalled acoustics and lively live music, all complemented by a wonderful atmosphere and selection of drinks. Separated into three sections, the club offers music, infectious ambiance, a fine selection of beverages and some of the best jazz music in the region.

In the evening, patrons can dine on delicious Spanish barbeque whilst listening to authentic jazz. Open from the 30th July to 1ST September, Jazz Club La Guitarra can be found in the Old Road in Calella de Palafrugell.

Throughout July and August patrons are treated to swing jazz and improvised jazz sessions. Open from 7pm to 1am, you can’t leave Jazz Club La Guitarra without trying the local cremat – and there’s even an outside terrace where you can catch a breather, enjoy the company of friends – and maybe make a few new ones!

Es Dofi Restaurant

Selected as one of the premier restaurants on the Costa Brava, Es Dofi is a little gem of a restaurant just yards away from the bay of Tamariu. The anthesis of a pretentious cosmopolitan restaurant, Es Dofi cultivates a warm and homely atmosphere.

The perfect place for families, friends or couples to spend a relaxing evening, Es Dofi takes advantage of the scenic coastal setting by serving some of the freshest and most scrumptious fresh seafood that you’re ever likely to eat. Hake, turbot and bream and always on the menu – and heralded by patrons as examples of the best fish that they’ve ever eaten.

Visit Es Dofi and you’re guaranteed to leave feeling happy and satisfied. All dishes come with the choice of a healthy salad or freshly cut chips and there are vegetarian and gluten free options to choose from also.

In case you need any further convincing, Es Dofi has been selected by The Telegraph as one of the best restaurants on the Costa Brava. T

Centre Fraternal

For a diverse evening of culture and sophisticated socialising, there’s only one place to visit – the Centre Fraternal. Located a shade over ten minutes away from Tamariu in neighbouring Parafrugell, Centre Fratenal is a cultural centre and casino famed throughout the Costa Brava.

Steeped in history, the building has been the consummate place for social gatherings since 1887. Protected as a local cultural heritage building, the architecture is as inviting as the interior is enticing. The history of arts and culture is elegantly represented within inside the Centre Fraternal.

Moving throughout history, visit the Centre Fraternal and you’ll discover exhibitions of prehistoric migrations as Homo-genus migrated to Spain, leading up to the emergence of the Sephardic culture prior to the issuance of the Alhambra Decree by order of the Catholic Monarch in Spain in 1492.

The evening welcomes gaming enthusiasts as Centre Fraternal becomes a casino. A fun way for sophisticates to socialise and enjoy an evening of good-natured gambling, Centre Fraternal offers a contrasting experience of heritage and cultured socialising after dusk descends.

These are just a few of the evening experiences that visitors to Tamariu can expect when visiting the coastal town. Sure to cater to everyone’s idea of the swell evening, there’s more to this sleepy town than what there might first seem.

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  • Villa to rent in Tamariu, Costa Brava
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Aiguablava Summary


Aiguablava is for many people the Costa Brava`s most perfect spot, where the cliffs reach down into a turquoise bay backed by a beach of gently shelving sand. It was here in 1908 that Ferran Agullo first coined the term Costa Brava. Although Aiguablava (its name means `blue water` in Catalan) has been `discovered` and villas are creeping up the hillsides, this remains a good place to experience the Costa Brava as it was before mass tourism took over in the more southern resorts.

Aiguablava villas

Haven On Earth have an excellent selection of villas with private pools in Aiguablava, as well as apartments in smart developments such as Cap Rubi and Los Oliveres. The villas we have in Aiguablava range from 2 bedrooms to 6 bedrooms. We have a selection of smart, modern villas in this area, offering a contemporary feel to your holiday and for those looking for more of a traditional experience we have older villas which do tend to be better value for those who don’t mind a rustic feel.

Aiguablava beaches

Platja Fonda: Platja Fonda can be reached via the coastal footpath from Fornells. The beach is approximately 130m long, has coarse, dark sand and is quite low down in comparison to the path, meaning that it is reached by a long set of steps. The beach remains unspoilt and wild thanks to its access.

Platja de Fornells: Fornells is well known for its small harbour and can be easily reached from >Begur by road and also via the coastal path that runs between >Aiguablava and Fornells. Fornells enjoys favourable weather conditions making it a pleasant holiday location. The original beauty and charm of Fornells has not been lost despite it becoming more residencial. Fornells is also a great place for fishing. At each side of Fornells there are two small coves: `Ses Orats` and `Can Malaret`.

"Three miles to the north, the triple whammy of Aiguablava, Fornells and Platja Fonda will spark a best-beach debate..." Extract from `The Perfect Spanish Costa` by Chris Haslam from The Times January 13, 2008

Platja d`Aiguablava: >Aiguablava is for many people the Costa Brava`s most perfect spot, where the cliffs reach down into a turquoise bay backed by a beach of gently shelving sand. The beach offers fine, light-coloured sand and beautiful shallow waters – a perfect setting for any holiday maker. The beach of >Aiguablava is easily reached by road with good parking facilities. The beach is one of the most popular beaches not only in >Begur, but the whole of Catalonia. Over the years many artists and writers have depicted this wonderful location in their works.

"Aiguablava: The setting here — a sunset-pink rocky inlet where little boats ride on Smartie-coloured buoys against an amphitheatre of green hills — is Mediterranean perfection." Extract from `The wilder side of the Costa Brava` by David Wickers from The Times, June 26, 2005

Aiguablava history

Aiguablava seems immune to change; probably why it is still among our preferred destinations on the Costa Brava. As we approach, we pass through lush vegetation and catch glimpses here and there of resplendent, well-hidden private houses dotting the hills. At times the ascent from the waterfront is so steep that construction is virtually impossible; and yet the government-sponsored Parador de Aiguablava crowns one of the highest rocky crags. The hotel, modern and spare in style and well over 30 years old, takes a back seat to the vertiginous views. The hotel pool, at the edge of the precipice, is perfectly situated. In the evening, lights sparkle from the houses in the surrounding hills, and we briefly contemplate staying put but we can`t resist exploring nearby villages and their own coves: Tamari, Aigua Xelida, Sa Tuna, Aiguafreda, and Llafranc, where the simple but immaculate little Hotel Llafranc sits along the tree-shaded seaside promenade.

When we returned to the Costa Brava in October, we checked into Mas de Torrent, a few miles inland from Aiguablava. The hotel was at the vanguard of a wave of small deluxe hotels sprouting in Spain. An 18th-century masia (Catalonian manor house) in the countryside, exquisitely refurbished; the hotel is ideally situated to take advantage of both the coast and the rural interior. While here we direct our attention inward, visiting beautifully preserved medieval towns like Peratallada, with cobbled streets, covered passageways and an 11th-century castle (now a deluxe hotel with eight guest rooms), and Pals, former fief of feudal lords that was rediscovered by city folk who have splendidly restored the houses as weekend retreats. We are especially charmed by the isolated town of Monells and its singular Plaza Mayor, from which multiarched porticoed streets, tunnel-like passageways and alleyways emerge at odd angles.

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